OLOS BELANGKIT: A RESIDUAL SABAH TEXTILE TRADITION OF PAST CROSS-CULTURAL LINKAGES
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Abstract
This presentation describes a unique textile material culture peculiar to Sabah. Generically labelled as linangkit, it is a needle-work technique to create a narrow decorative but dense panel of fabric to join seams of traditional costumes and clothing. Production of this distinctive fabric is found concentrated on Sabah’s north and west coast inhabited by producer and user indigenous groups comprising mainly of speakers of Dusunic, Sama-Bajau and Iranun languages. Invariably, the technique and product are called by a variety of names, each aligned to the respective producing indigenous groups and district: linangkit (Lotud, Tuaran), rinangkit, langkit (Rungus), olos belangkit (Bajau, Kota Belud), liangkitan (Iranun, Kota Belud). The olos belangkit of the Bajau of Kota Belud is significant for the panel’s length and width; an extant but declining needle craft due to its painstaking process of creation. Semantics point to Mindanao as the source of this textile craft, and derivation of the term langkit (Maranao) which means lacework, ornamental or to decorate, and (Tausug) adjoin, and linangkit does all these. The cross-cultural linkages fostered by the mobile population plying between Sabah and Mindanao for centuries likely introduced the craft to Sabah where it is still a living heritage.
Keywords: cross-cultural linkages, tradition, textile, Olos Belangkit & Sabah
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